I love old black and white spy movies where a subtle etiquette or taste mistake foils a plan. They highlight the importance of privacy and identity as related to culture. One example is the American spy in German-occupied France of WWII who switched his fork and knife during a meal in a cafe.

It is news to me that the flavor of Gefilte fish can be one such identifier. Today few of us probably are familiar with variations of home-made Gefilte, but many years ago…

The “gefilte fish line” ran though eastern Poland.

Jews living to the west — most of Poland, as well as Germany and the rest of Western Europe — ate the sweet gefilte fish. Those to the east — Lithuania, Latvia and Russia — ate the peppery version.

The real story is how fish flavor represents a major geographic divide in customs, culture and even language. In other words, choose the peppery version and you could reveal far more information than you might realize.

Can you tell where this recipe is from?

Balls
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Grind together
—
1 lb whitefish
1 lb pickle
1 small onion
1 stalk celery
1 egg

Mix in
—
1 heaping Tablespoon matzo meal
1 teaspoon salt

Broth
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Fish heads and bodies that were carefully boned
1 sliced onion
1 whole carrot
1 stalk celery
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon sugar
2 inches water
Bring to boil then simmer

Together
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Form fish balls in palm of hand
Put on top of broth
Poach for about 1 hour with pot covered
Strain broth after removing fish balls
Add gelatin dissolved in 1/4 cup cold water to broth
Mix well and chill

Other recipes, such as the three day one used by Firefly, call for just 1/2 teaspoon black peppercorns.